All the same, since arriving in Derry, Northern Ireland, I have been unable to stop thinking of the book It, which I coincidentally was reading the last time I was in Europe, and making (perhaps excessively grandiose) connections between the tales of the two cities with the same name.
Like all places, Derry has a feel of its own- the distinct, intangible colors that characterize it. For a place that has so recently experienced active conflict (Bloody Sunday occurred here in 1972, and the Good Friday agreement officially ending the time of "the Troubles" wasn't signed until 1998), it seems strangely quaint- an old city with historical walls, a few commemorative murals, and a polished peace bridge. With antique buildings and pubs set among green hills, and a vibrant river running through it, Derry to me seems like the friendlier grandfather of many PNW cities in the United States. Through our partnership with local peacebuilding organization The Junction, I have seen obvious displays of genuine friendship between Protestant-Loyalist and Catholic-Nationalist ex-combatants, and both young and old alike seem to proudly boast of how unconcerned Northern Irish from my generation are with such sectarian divides. People here seem relieved at how far they have come, and the many tourist groups walking Derry's streets are a testament to its safe, small-town feel.
I have, in some ways, been waiting for my Pennywise the Clown moment since arriving in Derry. But other than far-too-frequent encounters with gluten, nothing had been that terrifying. And then we took a day trip to Belfast, Northern Ireland's largest city, and the place where I'll be spending the majority of my summer. The contrast between Derry and Belfast was stark. Belfast is highly industrial, and instead of a river separating those who are traditionally Protestant-Loyalist from prople who are traditionally Catholic-Nationalist, there is a wall. And not one that was built centuries ago by an English king who was bad at finances like the one in Derry. Belfast's wall is specifically designed to separate the two groups (the gates are locked each night at 10pm), and general consensus is that citizens want it there- it makes them feel safer.
We viewed these walls, lovingly termed "Peace Walls", along with several Protestant and Catholic memorial gravesites, through a bus tour half-led by a former IRA member (on the Catholic-Nationalist side of the city) and half-led by a former UVF member (on the Protestant-Loyalist side of the city). Though the two were working together under the same tour company, they never interacted, and they were both honest that they had come to the job because their former prison sentences had made it difficult to find work elsewhere.
All the while, our kind, well-meaning bus driver was passing around rubber bullets and a tear gas canister that had been used during the Troubles. Touching these not-so-distant artifacts, looking at the tall, graffitied concrete wall, and witnessing an overwhelming sense of apartness in the city's commemorative monuments, I began to feel my blood sugar drop. I was struck with one redundant, sickening thought: I've seen this before.
It's been a little over a year since I traveled to Israel-Palestine. During this time, I have been challenged to face pain and embrace the paradoxical moments of peace entering into violent terrain. And I'm proud of the ways I've begun to cultivate this skill. But going to a place that was so reminiscent of my own personal trauma and representative of the potential future of a region I care about deeply was...a bit dismantling. The strength I have gained through the fire of the past year is one my greatest treasures, and I was suddenly forced to realize that it is fragile. Pennywise the Clown had made it onto the bus.
Belfast is not Bethlehem- on this trip I've been learning a lot about the value of having models for transforming conflict, but also a lot about the danger of story comparison (my wise friend Matt calls it cheapening another's history). And where Belfast is at is not bad- it was just a jarring reminder that there's still work to do.
There's still work to do. And it's complex. I have a lot of questions about how things fit together here, and am often overwhelmed by all the components that I don't understand (so basically, it's a lot like how I feel most of the time in the United States). I'm still learning to embrace complexity and long runs as good things. I'm impatient for endings, but I'm often sad when they come (a brief example: I spent all of one summer tackling the thousand-page-plus leviathan that was It, with a slight twinge of resentment toward each perceived unnecessary detail, only to cry when I finished it). I'm excited for the challenge to keep facing troubles (no pun intended) and to keep my own heart present in the fantastically real story that is being woven together in Northern Ireland
right
now.